Of all the boots a man can own, the chukka asks the least of him. It has no buckle to fasten, no elastic to stretch and no long row of eyelets to lace. Two or three pairs of eyelets, a clean ankle line and a sole that sits close to the ground are all it needs.

That simplicity is exactly why it has lasted. Born, as the story goes, beside the polo field and later carried across the desert by British soldiers, the chukka has become one of the most useful boots in menswear. It sits comfortably between a smart shoe and a weekend trainer, and it rarely looks out of place.

This guide explains what a chukka boot is, where it came from, how it differs from the boots it is so often confused with, and how to choose and wear a pair well.

A chukka boot is an ankle height boot with open lacing, two or three pairs of eyelets and a rounded toe. The upper is usually cut from just two or three pieces of leather or suede, which gives the boot its clean, uncluttered look.

Open lacing means the eyelet facings are stitched on top of the front of the boot rather than beneath it. This is the same construction that defines a Derby shoe, and it is a large part of why the chukka feels relaxed and accommodating on the foot. The shaft finishes just at or slightly above the ankle bone, high enough to feel like a boot and low enough to disappear neatly beneath a trouser hem.

The result is a boot that is quietly versatile rather than showy. In fine calf leather on a slim sole it reads smart. In suede on a rubber sole it reads relaxed. The silhouette barely changes between the two, which is the chukka's great talent.

You can see the full range of colours in our men's chukka boots collection, each handmade in Spain from premium Italian leather.

One piece of fine leather, shaped with skill, gives you a shoe that is as right at a black tie dinner as it is in the boardroom. Explore our wholecut Oxford collection to find yours.

This is the comparison that causes the most confusion, and the answer is simple. Every desert boot is a chukka, but not every chukka is a desert boot.

A desert boot is a specific type of chukka with a suede upper and a crepe rubber sole. It is soft, light and firmly casual. A chukka can be made in any leather and on any sole, including a sleek leather sole, which allows it to dress up in a way a desert boot never quite can.

Both are clean, close fitting ankle boots, but they fasten in completely different ways. The chukka laces up. The Chelsea has no laces at all and relies on elastic panels at each side.

The Chelsea is the sleeker of the two and slides more easily under a suit. The chukka has a softer, more relaxed character and gives you more control over the fit, because you can tighten the laces across the instep. To see how far a Chelsea can travel, read our guide on how to style Chelsea boots.

The Jodhpur boot swaps laces for a strap and buckle that wraps the ankle, giving it a more tailored, equestrian look. The Balmoral sits at the formal end of the scale, with closed lacing that makes it look like an Oxford shoe carried above the ankle.

If you want a boot for suits and formal occasions, our guide to what a Balmoral boot is is the place to start. If you want one boot for everything from the office to the weekend, the chukka is hard to beat.

The chukka is happiest in smart casual territory, but the right pair can stretch further than you might expect. The leather, the colour and the sole decide how far.

This is the chukka's natural home. Choose dark, slim or straight denim and let the hem sit just over the top of the boot, without pooling. Suede or a softer brown leather keeps the look relaxed, while a polished calf chukka lifts denim into something sharper. For more ideas across every boot style, our guide on how to wear men's boots is worth a read.

Pair a brown or cognac chukka with chinos, grey flannels or corduroy and a knit or an unstructured jacket. Keep the trousers tapered through the lower leg, because wide trousers swallow the boot's clean shape. This is where the chukka does its best work, looking considered without ever looking stiff.

A chukka can be worn with tailoring, but choose your moment. A sleek calf chukka on a leather sole, in black or dark brown, sits well beneath a flannel, tweed or softly tailored suit. For sharp business suits and formal events, a Chelsea, Jodhpur or Oxford is the better choice. Our guide to what shoes to wear with a suit covers colour pairing in detail.

For relaxed, rustic or country weddings, especially in autumn and winter, a polished chukka in dark brown or burgundy is a stylish choice for guests. Grooms usually want something a little more formal, so take a look at our guide to the best shoe styles for grooms before deciding.

For a deeper look at outfits, seasons and occasions, see our full chukka boot styling guide.

Colour sets the tone of a chukka more than any other detail. Our chukka boots come in seven shades, each with its own character.

• Black chukka boots are the smartest option, ideal with tailored trousers, office separates and evening wear.
• Brown chukka boots are the most versatile, hand painted and polished to a deep tone that suits denim, chinos and navy tailoring.
• Tan chukka boots bring warmth to stone chinos, light denim and summer wardrobes.
• Cognac chukka boots sit between tan and dark brown, and look superb with grey and navy.
• Burgundy chukka boots add depth and character to semi formal outfits.
• Navy blue chukka boots offer a modern alternative for relaxed business wear.
• Forest green chukka boots suit tweed, corduroy and country inspired wardrobes.

If this is your first pair, start with brown. It works with almost everything you own.

Because the chukka is so simple, there is nowhere for poor materials or construction to hide. Here is what matters.

Look for full grain calf leather or a good quality suede. Calf takes a polish, softens with wear and develops a rich patina over time. Suede is softer and more casual, but needs a little more protection. Poyter chukka boots are made from premium Italian leather, and you can read more about our leather selection.

A welted chukka can be resoled many times, which turns it from a seasonal purchase into a long term investment. Glued boots, by contrast, are usually finished once the sole wears through. Find out more about Goodyear welted construction and why it matters.

• Leather soles look the most elegant and suit smarter outfits.
• Rubber soles give better grip and stand up well to wet British weather.
• Combination soles pair the look of leather with rubber grip at the heel and toe.

Every Poyter chukka is offered with all three, so you can match the sole to how you will actually wear the boot.

Open lacing makes the chukka one of the more forgiving boots to fit, since you can loosen or tighten it across the instep. Even so, three areas deserve attention.

• Heel. It should feel secure, with only a little lift as you walk.
• Ankle. The collar should sit close to the ankle without digging in.
• Width. The forefoot should feel snug but never pinched.

If you have broader feet, our wide toe box chukka boots are cut with extra room through the forefoot, and our guide to the best dress shoes for wide feet explains what to look for. If your heel tends to slip, read what to do if you have narrow feet.

Before ordering, check our size chart and measuring guide. And if standard sizes have never quite worked for you, our Made to Measure Shoes are built around your own measurements, with every pair backed by our no fit refund guarantee.

A little care keeps a good chukka looking its best for years.

• Use cedar shoe trees after every wear to hold the shape and draw out moisture.
• Brush suede regularly with a suede brush, and treat it with a protector spray before the first wear.
• Condition and polish calf leather every few weeks, following our leather shoe care guide.
• Rotate your footwear so the leather has at least a day to rest between wears.

If you wear your chukkas through autumn and winter, it is well worth reading how to protect leather shoes from rain. New boots can feel firm for the first few wears, and our guide on breaking in new leather shoes will help you through.

The chukka has outlasted almost every trend around it for one simple reason. It does a great deal while asking very little. Chosen in good leather, built to be resoled and fitted properly, a single pair will carry you from a Saturday morning to a smart dinner, season after season.

Explore our handmade chukka boots in seven colours, with leather, rubber or combination soles and wide fit options. Or, if you would like to choose every detail yourself, design your own chukka boots using our 3D design tool.